How to use this guide
A van build is a chain of decisions. Pick a fridge before you know your battery and you may end up with flat batteries every third morning. Pick a heater before planning the floor and you may have nowhere safe to run the exhaust. The sections below follow the order most experienced builders recommend, and each one ends with the dedicated guide where we compare products on manufacturer specifications.
Our method, plainly: we have not lab-tested these products. Every figure on this site comes from the manufacturer's published spec sheet (linked on each product) and from patterns we see across public owner reviews. Read more in how we research.
1. Electrical system: the backbone
Everything else in your van draws power, so start here. You need four building blocks:
- A house battery. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) is now the default for new builds: lighter than lead-acid for the same usable energy and far more cycles. See the best lithium batteries for camper vans.
- Alternator charging. A DC-DC charger lets your engine recharge the house battery safely while you drive – essential with modern smart alternators. See the best DC-DC chargers and our Victron vs Renogy comparison.
- Solar. Free energy while you're parked. See solar panels for a van roof.
- An inverter – only if you truly need mains-voltage appliances. See inverters for vans.
If you'd rather not wire anything, a portable power station is the plug-and-play alternative. Before buying, run your numbers through the van electrical system calculator.
Electrical safety. 12 V systems carry high currents that can start fires; mains (120/230 V) wiring can kill. Fuse every positive cable at its source, size cables to the manufacturer's tables, and have your system designed or checked by a qualified auto-electrician. Mains wiring should be done by a qualified electrician.
2. Cold: the 12V compressor fridge
The fridge is usually the single largest continuous load in a van. Compressor fridges (not thermoelectric coolers) are the norm because they hold temperature in summer heat while cycling on and off. Key choices: single or dual zone, chest or upright, and how much floor length you can spare. Compare options in best 12V fridges for van life and the head-to-head Dometic CFX3 vs BougeRV.
3. Heat: diesel air heaters
A diesel air heater draws fuel from your vehicle tank (or a separate tank), burns it in a sealed chamber and blows warm, dry air into the van. Heat output for van-sized units is typically around 2 kW. The real decision is between branded units (Webasto, Eberspächer, Autoterm) and low-cost generic heaters – see best diesel heaters for campervans and Webasto vs Chinese diesel heaters.
Carbon monoxide & fire. Any fuel-burning heater must have a sealed combustion system with exhaust routed outside, installed to the manufacturer's manual – ideally by a qualified installer. Fit a certified CO alarm in the living area and test it regularly. Never sleep in a van with a heater you haven't had checked.
4. Air: ventilation and insulation
Condensation is the silent killer of van builds. Two people breathing overnight put a surprising amount of water vapour into a small space. A powered roof fan plus sensible insulation and a vapour strategy prevents mould. See best roof vent fans and van insulation.
5. Water: pump, tanks and shower
A 12 V diaphragm pump with a pressure switch gives you tap-on, water-flows convenience. Size it to your outlets, not to the biggest number on the box. See water pumps for campervans and portable showers for van life.
6. Toilet
Composting or "separating" toilets dominate van builds because they avoid black-water tanks and dump stations. The choice is mostly about size, seat height, whether you want a fan and an agitator, and how often you're willing to empty. See best composting toilets and Trelino vs Nature's Head.
7. Living space: seating
A swivel seat base turns the passenger (and sometimes driver) seat into part of your lounge – a big gain in a small van. Because it's part of a crash-tested seat system, this is a safety-critical choice: see swivel seat bases.
8. Budget the whole thing
Use our van build cost worksheet to list every line item before you start buying – it's the easiest way to avoid running out of money halfway through the electrical system.
Frequently asked questions
What should I buy first for a van conversion?
Decide your electrical system first: the battery size, how you charge it (alternator via a DC-DC charger, solar, shore power) and whether you need an inverter. The fridge, heater, fan and pump all draw from it, so their consumption sets the battery size.
Do I need a professional for a van conversion?
Not for everything, but get a qualified installer or inspector for anything that touches the vehicle's starter circuit, 230 V/120 V AC wiring, gas, or diesel heater fuel and exhaust. Insurers and vehicle inspections in many countries expect it.
12V or 24V system for a van?
Most vans use 12 V because the vehicle, the fridge, the fan and nearly every accessory are 12 V natively. 24 V makes sense for large inverters and long cable runs, but adds converters for 12 V loads.
Is a power station enough for van life?
For weekends and part-time use, often yes. For full-time living with a compressor fridge, a heater and remote work, a wired lithium battery with a DC-DC charger and solar usually scales better.
Spotted an outdated spec? Tell us.